What makes a super sport different form others. In this case with the CB750F - NOTHING . Its just a different fuel tank and side covers, and some minor rejetting of the carbs, and if my memory serves me right there is a different rear sprocket to give it lightning performance from a standing start. Other than that the CB750K and the F are basically one and the same bike. You can get all the spares you want from www.hdlparts.com
and tail, but yes, just body/trim. Wheels, and triple discs too (over the "K" model). All other parts are same. Motor parts all interchange, but the "F" motor is more desireable for modding...While it's parts will interchange it came with some stronger internals stock.
It always give me a great deal of pleasure to help someone like you who appreciates the information that we pass on to folks like yourself ,who are just starting out with restoring these magnificent bikes. They certainly are a classic and deserve a lot more than just a cursory lick and a promise in the hope that it will be OK. I`m in the process of restoring my 1980 Honda CB 750KZ - ( its about a two year project as I have another project on the go as well ) now you might be asking what the hell is a KZ, when all you have problably heard of is the 750K , F or C models. In the southeren hemisphere, where I am based in Australia, there were that many variants of the CB750K models that Honda Australia in conjunction with Honda Japan designated the CB750KZ as the last of the series of the CB750 models1979 -1983 . American Hondas were slighly different in that they had spoked wheels, and in the southern hemisphere around the world they all came with Comstar wheels. Early model CB750KZ`s were fitted with one disc brake and a drum brake. By the time they ( japan ) stopped making them they were then fitted with dual front discs and the F model then got a rear disc . The F models were fitted with dual discs down under with a drum brake on the rear, and then went to a disc brake at the rear in the last 12 months of production. I dont believe that there were any mods done to the F engine that made it more desirable because according to the parts list all the engine parts were the same. Maybe the USA had some internal mods done but certainly not in Australia. All the best with your endeavours
Glad to have been able to help. I hope you realize I forgot to add the letter s to www.hdlparts.com not hdlpart.com which is what I sent you. There are a number of other useful website that you can go to, but I think that hdlparts .com is by far the best of all the websites. At least they have everything in stock, wheras many others carry very little in the way of much needed parts. Well 50F converted to Centigrade equates to about 27degrees which is ideal weather for going biking. Have fun and let me know how it all goes
Hello, Well it only got to 42 degrees F today, but I put on an insulated suit and took her out.
It has been tough having it sitting in the garage without being able to try it due to weather. ( A bit like having a naked girl lying in your bed and you can't touch her)
I've been a strictly dirt-biker for over 40 years riding lightweight bikes you throw around so this was a bit different for me. The motor is smooth and comes on above 6K. The low/forward center of gravity/weight will take some getting used to, I felt that the steering rake could be 1-2 degrees forward and that would had made it a bit more stable in cornering.
A bit hard to start in the cold and required a shot of ether.
Does this bike have a rev limiter? It broke up ignition-wise in the red zone.
So I like her, she is a keeper but will take some getting used to.
Hi Al. First of all you have a geat looking bike complete with the MK11 version of the Comstar wheels -really looks great.
Well I did a temp conversion as in Australia we are all metric and 42 degrees F = 5 degrees Centigrade which is bloody cold, freezing point being zero degrees which is 32*F. No wonder you wore an insulated suit ! After riding dirt bikes for 40 years where you can literally throw them around, the 750F has completely different handling characteristics. No Al, there is no rev limiter on these motors so be careful as they can run into the redline at the twist of the throttle, particularly in 1st and 2nd gear. 3rd gear would probably get you to about 80 or 90 MPH before getting into the redline. I reckon changing up at around 6000 - 7500 just to save the motor from being over stressed.
I`ve never had cold starting problems with my 750K even when its been below freezing and there has been ice on the bike. Started first go, and then let it idle to warm up the oil before hitting the road.
Once you get used to the handling characteristics you will love the bike even more, and then you will be able to throw it around especially on long sweeping bends. I`ve actually been able to drag the left foot peg around a long sweeping tight left handers, but never been able to get the right side to drag.
Just check your stearing head bearings and rear swing arm bushes, as these two items can give you peculiar handling problems when you are motoring along through sweeping corners, if they are worn. Put the bike on the main stand and some weight on the rear so that the front wheel is in the air, and gently turn the handlebar from side to side SLOWLY, if you can feel a series of notches as you are turning it replace the head bearings !! Same with the rear swing arm. Lateral side movement and the bushes/bearings need replacing
Oh I know the feeling of being able to look and pretend its some nice nubile wench lying in the bed next to you but you can a only look not touch. My 22 year old son has a drop dead gorgeous girl friend he has been going out with for some time and she has body to die for ! nice to look at but cant touch - oh bugger!
Good to know the stearing head bearings are OK. I wasnt far out when I said about 80 -90 MPH in the 3rd, but it does take a little while to get there. When My CB750K was just run in with about 5000Km on the clock ( +- 3000 miles ) I got it up to 210 KMH - 130 MPH before speed limits were introduced in Australia. I doubt that I coudl have got any more out of it as it was nearing the redline and I was running out of road !! Now that I am in the restoration process the bike will be off the road for up to 18 months as everything I need has to come from www.hdlparts.com and the Australian Dollar is worth 65 cents to the USA Dollar, which makes the exchange rate exorbitant. Three months ago when I was geting parts the Aussie Dollar was 95cent to the US Dollar so it made buy from the US relatively inexpensive, I still need a new fuel tank and the two side covers - both of which are available in the same colour as my bike, and as I have been havong a lot of trouble with the carbs, I`m going to bite the bullet and buy the entire carb assembly for just over $1000 US. New tank + new carbs means no more problems with fuel and carbs leaking and not performing etc etc. Its been stripped down to the bare frame and thats due to go into town to be sand blasted and powder coated. Then I can reassemble everything that needs to go back and wait until the exchange rate is more favourable thenget the remaining parts and start rinding again.
In the meantime I`ll go and look at your web site. Here is a photo of my bike taken about three years ago when I was about to sell it. Glad I didnt now. My+Honda+CB750K_edited.JPG CLICK on the link and it should open the file of my CB750K. This was taken at night, hence the reflection of the side reflectors
No rev limiter. What altitude are you at? Could very well be running lean in the 42 deg air, but I wouldn't bother jetting for it unless you plan on riding it all the time in these conditions. In general, on a US bike, a #75 primary main jet will be a nice improvement over the stock #68.....Especially w/ that yohi pipe....and this is in 'normal' weather.
Check your choke for function. Mine doesn't work...LOL. It's a mofo to start in the cold, and will run lean in that air.
Most prefer the 'sport kit' for aggressive riding on the F's which is very had to find...Moves pegs/controls back/etc to give a more agressive position (as opposed to changing the rake) and used along with superbike handlebars.
Me like dirt too. You'll be suprised how flickable that F is, but in comparison to modern sport bikes it's like riding an 88 CR250. At the same time Ricky Johnson on an 88 could spank me on my 98...LOL. Just like Freddie Spencer on that 80 F could wax me on an 08 CBR.
Well, thank you. I'm right outside of Boston at about 500 feet above SL. The bike seems to run great except for the break-up at redline, and I probably won't be pushing it there too much.
Thanks for the info on the jetting, but since it runs fine now I won't be touching that, at least until the carbs need cleaning. The choke is a little messed up the previous owner told me and does not fully dis-engage.
Sport kit might work better for me at 6' tall, my knees are a little crunched and might benefit from a rearward and lower peg placement.
Nothing wrong with vintage two-stroke woods bikes. I BLOW by the modern ones on somewhat level ground all the time! Vintage bikes do really suck in comparison to the modern suspension. You have to hold on quite a bit tighter. I chew gum to keep my teeth from breaking! :-)
They should have dirt bike drag races in my opinion.
Didnt think I would see another post from you. I can tell you whats happening when you get the break up when you hit the red line. You are getting valve bounce NOT GOOD FOR THE CYLINDER HEAD !!!!!! So dont go to the red line unlesss you want bits of valve gear floating around inside the pistons . Both of us are past the stage of pretending we are Valentino Rossi or some other great and world famous motor cycle rider.
Cheers for now
I just bought a 1980, same model, except mine is black and does not have that sweet exhaust. Does it make the side without an exhaust look dorky?? I am looking at a Vance & Hines 4 into 1, maybe Santa will bring me one.
I've got the 77 cb750F lots of little things like dual disc frnt,mags,gearing ,covers,tank,but from what I notice everthing should be interchangeable,on mine the rear "mud flap"I need all the bull to put a rear fender on but will work,now I'm going off what I find for me,your duel cam may have lots of big things, don't give up, save the bike ,Stock as much as possible is worth more ,and sells lots easyer if to do so.buy the way I need a pic of your side cover decal
1977 CB750 F2 Super Sport
<LET THOSE WHO RIDE DECIDE><RIDE TO LIVE-LIVE FOR JESUS>
Native American from central Cal, Kickstand UP in S.W.Missouri,